The new method came about through DSM’s epidermal science platform CORNEOCARE™, in cooperation with partners from industry and academia. Presenting this novel approach at the ISBS World Congress in Lisbon in June 2016 DSM lead scientist Rainer Voegeli received the Johann Wilhelm Ritter Award for Innovative Skin Imaging.
Scientific studies confirm1 that dry facial skin can affect seven out of 10 women. This data is also supported by DSM’s own consumer research. For example, a recent consumer study2 performed in the UK confirmed that 90% of women suffer from dry skin, posing a great challenge for the industry, as the moisturization topic seems to be even harder to tackle than anti-aging.
DSM developed an intensive partnership network through its CORNEOCARE platform, with partners including Newton Technologies, AVR Consulting Ltd and the Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University. The aim of the platform is to advance understanding of the epidermis with the help of novel methodologies and to develop innovative products that will address consumer needs relating to cosmetic dry skin.
Previous DSM research3 had already proved that dry skin conditions can vary greatly depending on the part of the body affected. This means that single point measurements of skin hydration are not sufficient to evaluate the effectiveness of cosmetic facial moisturizers. With this novel approach, skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured on 30 pre-defined facial sites using digital facial imaging technology. The bio-instrumental data was then precisely linked to the corresponding facial positions and the data between the sites interpolated to obtain a value for all pixels of the image. Finally color maps were generated that continuously displayed facial skin hydration and TEWL, allowing more visual and thus easier interpretation. Remarkable skin hydration and TEWL gradients were found within short distances.
For proof of concept DSM ran a 28-day study4 with a moisturizing cream including PENTAVITIN® and Niacinamide PC. DSM was able to demonstrate and more importantly visualize how a cosmetic moisturizer can benefit the different facial sites.
Speaking of this new methodology, one of its creators, Rainer Voegeli, Senior Scientist Skin Biology at DSM, commented: “Moisturizing products need to take account of the different characteristics of various facial anatomical locations. The new methodology will help ingredient and skin care product manufacturers to better evaluate the effectiveness of moisturizing care and boost the value proposition of their products.”
Breakthroughs III SCIENCE NEWS FROM P&G BEAUTY VOL. III 2005 NEW BODY LOTION BREAKS THE DRY SKIN CYCLE
2) DSM On-Line Qualitative Research Community comprised of men and women. Global reach with total sample size of n=78
3) R. Voegeli, A. V. Rawlings, P. Seroul and B. Summers (2015) A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 595 605
4) Facial color mapping of stratum corneum hydration of different ethnic groups and the effect of a moisturizer
Rainer Voegeli, Marie Cherel, Lee-Ann Raaff, Peter Kollias, Pierre Seroul, Beverley Summers, Anthony V Rawlings 23rd IFSCC Conference, 2015 Zuerich.